Dab gently with a cold damp cloth — never rub — then soak just the stained area in very dilute Sil 1 für Alles solution (¼ teaspoon per 500 ml cold water) for 10–15 minutes maximum. Silk is itself a protein fibre, so you need enzyme concentrations strong enough to digest blood haemoglobin but gentle enough to spare silk's fibroin structure. Sil (Stiftung Warentest Grade 2.4) at quarter strength provides exactly this balance [S1]. For large or dried stains, professional wet-cleaning is recommended [S2].
How to Remove Blood Stains from Silk
Step-by-Step: Remove Blood from Silk
- Dab gently with a cold damp cloth (0–2 min). Dampen a white cloth with cold water and gently dab (never rub) the blood stain. Silk fibres lose up to 20% of their tensile strength when wet — friction can cause permanent surface damage, visible as a dulled patch on the sheen.
- Flush gently under cold water (1–2 min). Support the fabric with your hand and hold the stain under gently flowing cold water. Direct the flow from the back to push blood outward. Don't use forceful water pressure — the delicate fibres can be damaged by strong water jets.
- Soak briefly in dilute Sil solution (10–15 min). Dissolve a quarter teaspoon of Sil 1 für Alles in 500 ml cold water. Submerge only the stained area — or the whole garment for an even result. Limit soak time to 10–15 minutes. Silk is a protein fibre (fibroin) and prolonged enzyme exposure at higher concentrations could affect its structure.
- Rinse and press dry (3–5 min). Rinse thoroughly under cold running water until all product is removed. Lay the silk on a clean towel and roll the towel gently to press out excess water. Never wring, twist, or squeeze silk — it will permanently distort the fibre and create creases.
- Dry flat, away from heat and light (4–12 hours). Lay the garment flat on a dry towel, reshape it, and dry in a shaded, ventilated area. Silk is photosensitive — direct sunlight on wet silk causes permanent yellowing or colour fading. Never use a radiator, hairdryer, or tumble dryer.
Sil 1 für Alles Fleckensalz
Grade 2.4Why Sil Works for Blood on Silk
The challenge with blood on silk is a protein-on-protein problem: blood haemoglobin is a protein stain sitting on silk fibroin, which is also a protein fibre. Strong protease enzymes that digest haemoglobin could theoretically attack silk's fibroin too. Sil's formulation threads this needle: at quarter-strength dilution, the protease concentration is sufficient to cleave haemoglobin's relatively accessible peptide bonds (haemoglobin is a globular protein with exposed surfaces) while leaving silk's tightly crystalline fibroin structure intact [S1]. Fibroin's beta-sheet protein structure makes it significantly more resistant to enzyme attack than haemoglobin's looser globular structure — so at the right concentration, selective digestion is possible. The oxygen bleach component (sodium percarbonate) addresses the haem iron pigment at even low concentrations, removing the red-brown colour after the protein is digested [S2].
Silk-safe dosage: ¼ teaspoon per 500 ml cold water. Soak 10–15 minutes maximum. Do not increase concentration or time for silk. For stubborn stains, repeat the treatment with fresh solution rather than extending the soak.
What NOT to Do
- Don't use warm or hot water. Doubles the risk: sets the blood protein AND can damage silk's lustre and cause shrinkage. Cold water only.
- Don't rub or scrub. Wet silk is extremely fragile. Rubbing destroys the surface sheen and can cause permanent fibre breakage, visible as a whitened or fuzzy patch.
- Don't use strong enzyme concentrations. Full-strength Sil may attack silk's own protein structure. Always dilute to quarter strength for silk.
- Don't soak for more than 15 minutes. Prolonged water exposure weakens silk fibres and can cause water spotting — visible marks where mineral deposits remain.
- Don't use chlorine bleach or hydrogen peroxide. Both will destroy silk fibres and bleach the colour. Silk's protein structure is chemically incompatible with these oxidisers at full strength.
Silk-Specific Warnings
Silk demands the gentlest approach of any fabric. If the garment is labelled "dry clean only," consider professional wet-cleaning rather than home treatment. Note that standard dry cleaning (solvent-based) is actually poor at removing blood — a wet-clean specialist is better. For silk with embellishments, beading, or special finishes, do not attempt home treatment. Always test any product on a hidden area (inside seam) first — some silk dyes are extremely fugitive and may run even in cold water.
Frequently Asked Questions
Can you remove blood stains from silk at home?
Yes, for fresh and small stains. Cold water rinsing followed by a dilute Sil soak is effective. For large stains, dried blood, or "dry clean only" silk, professional wet-cleaning is recommended.
Why is silk harder to treat for blood stains than cotton?
Silk is itself a protein fibre, so strong protease enzymes can attack both the blood and the silk. You must use lower concentrations and shorter times. Sil at quarter strength is safe for silk while still effective against haemoglobin.
Does cold water damage silk?
Cold water is safe for short exposures. Keep treatment to 10–15 minutes. Silk loses up to 20% tensile strength when wet, so handle gently throughout.
Should you dry clean silk with blood stains?
Standard dry cleaning solvents are poor at removing protein stains like blood. A professional wet-clean service is more effective. Tell the cleaner about the stain and any treatments attempted.
Can you use lemon juice or vinegar on blood-stained silk?
Avoid both. Acids damage silk's lustre and can cause colour changes. A properly diluted enzyme cleaner like Sil is safer and more effective.
Sources: [S1] Stiftung Warentest, Fleckenentferner-Test 2024, Grade 2.4 (GUT) for Sil 1 für Alles Fleckensalz. [S2] Journal of Natural Fibers, "Selective enzymatic treatment of protein stains on silk fibroin substrates," vol. 19, 2022.